Exquisite Angels

There's  a LOT of information here. If you are considering a teacup I would highly recomend that you not only read every word of this but that you print it up and go over it with everyone that will be involved with your teacup adoption. Nothing here is intended to overide your own vets considerations. Few vets are well versed in the care of teacup puppies. No one has put in the time and love required to raise them like the breeders have. We have our own set of rules in place but here at Exquisite Angels it's always with our vet overseeing our puppies care. The information below is NOT to be copied and please do not link directly to it. You can copy by permission only. This information is for our clients and for anyone raising or adopting a teacup puppy.

 

 

Many breeders gasp in disgust and jump on the term teacup as a "no no". I can understand their reasoning because the term is misused and it's completely left to personal ideals so the general public does need education on the term and what it really stands for.  It is, to me, just a term for a puppy that is estimated to go under 4.5 lbs or a dog that is at or under 4.5 lbs. Period. So to me it's just a word. I don't really see what difference using the word is from using the words "itty bitty" or "extra tiny". When it becomes a problem is when a breeders ideals  differ from others and to them, a teacup is 7, 10, or even 15 pounds. Or...when it's used as a "red flag" of sorts to ask an outrageous adoption fees for a puppy from an unsusupecting client. When actively seeking a teacup ASK QUESTIONS. Get a clear outline of the breeders idea of what a teacup really is. Go to the Poodle weight chart and map your puppies progress (though even this isn't fool proof). Never trust a breeder that guarantees adult size. No one can do that. Period. And it' s simply unethical to do so.

 

 

Be aware that all teacups are fragile and prone to health problems. Some live shorter lifespans though I have found that just as many live extremely long lives. This is just a FACT and if you aren't ready to deal with it then don't purchase a teacup. They can be extremely expensive to raise, therefore there adoption fees are high (and for a good reason). The care that they recieve here is almost always every two hours for six to eight weeks. We cook for them, feed them the best of foods, and purchase yogurt and Nutrical by the case for them. Our puppies are VET SUPERVISED from birth on out and our teacups vet bills almost always exceed their adoption fee. Quite a few are born by cesarian and that surgery costs  well over 1 thousand dollars and you can triple that if it's a night or weekend and by emergency. The home care once adopted continues. If you aren't ready for vet bills and extreme care don't proceed with a teacup adoption. If it sounds like I'm trying to scare you I am. I cannot stress enough or give enough warnings about what's involved with teacup care. As far as pricing the math is simple. A true teacup is worth every penny and I can guarantee you that no one is getting rich raising teacups. Just the opposite! With proper vet care they are quite often adopted out at a loss.

 

If an adult weight is very specific and important to you ADOPT A PUPPY THAT IS 6 MONTHS TO ONE YEAR OLD. That takes the guesswork out of it. If you adopt a puppy any younger than four to six months you cannot be certain of it's adult size. PERIOD. The older a puppy is the greater the accuracy in the estimate.

I do not like to work with "weight watchers". I will not go and weigh a chosen puppy for you every five minutes to see if it's gained an ounce. We do weekly weigh ins. Be aware that some of our tiniest adult dogs were NORMAL SIZED PUPPIES! When adopting a PUPPY from me be aware that your adult estimate is just that, an ESTIMATE. It is nerve wracking for any breeder to deal with these "weight watchers" or size obsessed clients as we really have no control over adult size. We do have and do adopt tiny puppies that turn out to be tiny adults. Bottom line we are looking for clients who will love their puppy NO MATTER WHAT. So, again, if you are that set on having a certain size ADOPT AN OLDER PUPPY OR AN ADULT DOG. These are strong words but they are also HONEST words intended to help you in your desire for a tiny dog.

 

 

They just don't mix and it isn't fair to the puppy or the child to try to do so. If you have a child you want a dog that your child can ENJOY. That your child can run and play with! No responsible breeder will place a teacup in a home with small children. I can't imagine going through all the work a teacup requires just to place it in danger. I cannot understand people who call me and ask for a teacup for their six year old. To me it's comparable to asking for a chainsaw for a child to play with. It's just rediculous to even consider it. Teacups are for adults and require at least one stay at home parent. I love children and have two myself so it's nothing against children. It's just a point of responsiblity!

 

Moving a teacup to it's new Home
Teacups can only be moved when they are READY and with a vets approval. It doesn't matter how good of a home you have or how much experience you have with teacups I will not endanger any puppy that I own by moving it too soon. You can expect 12 weeks at the earliest and up to five months at the latest!

 

 

First of all no breeder should actively breed for teacups. I have read on websites that breeders are breeding 2 and 3 pound dogs which is completely unethical. To do so would be at a HUGE risk to the mother's life and only money could be the motivator for anyone to disreguard the Mother dog's life. Mother nature has a way of coming back with a vengance when you disturb her natural plans too much. Healthy teacups come from small or even average sized parents. They are an anomaly and a gift but be warned that their care is extreme and they are prone to health issues NO MATTER WHAT.

 

 

To my knowledge the long lived Chihuahua is the ONLY breed that has been safely reduced to teacups as a natural size. They are healthier and hardier than any other breed that I know of and I highly recomend that anyone wanting a HEALTHY long lived tiny companion to seriously consider the Chihuahua breed. They require the same amount of care as puppies but come with a lesser degree of health issues related to size.

 

This is one pure bred dog that can be a teacup but just wasn't designed to be so. They have a heart shaped ribcage in most cases instead of the sprung ribcage and there simply isn't room for heart and lungs. I have found the Maltese breed to be extremely delicate overall and even full sized Maltese puppies are very fragile for the first twelve to sixteen weeks. They are more prone to hypoglycmia, liver shunt, hydrocephalus, and heart problems. I LOVE the breed and YES they do come healthy happy and hardy, even in teacup size. But please understand that with this particular breed you must proceed very cautiously with any adoption. No Maltese should be shipped until it is 12 weeks old. This is where adoptions can be hard for Maltese breeders. You have puppy mills and unethical breeders out there offering teeny tiny Maltese that are so adorable in the pictures. The larger older pups are consistantly overlooked. The truth is that they are OLDER therefore BIGGER and their breeders are doing the RIGHT THING by holding them until they are ready to go. And you must, as a potential parent, realize that the larger 12 week old puppy and the smaller 6 week old puppy will more than likely grow up IN THE SAME SIZE RANGE. So it's best to be well informed when shopping for a Maltese. My own Pirate weighed 2.5 lbs at eight weeks and matured at 3.5 lbs. LISTEN to your breeder and don't be impatient when waiting for your baby to be shipped. I cannot stress enough that the Maltese breed just requires more care  as puppies. That said they are so hardy  and tough in most cases  as adults. My Maltese actively run and play and can even keep up with my Shelties. I would highly encourage anyone adopting a Maltese to ADOPT a HEALTHY SIZE. You cannot imagine just how small a five pound dog is and a four to six pound Maltese is the WISEST CHOICE YOU WILL EVER MAKE.

 

This is a long lived breed that often produces healthy teacups. They are, though, as with the Maltese prone to liver shunt and heart problems along with hypoglycemia and hydrocephalus. The terrier blood really increases hardiness in this  breed and they are strong and active  little puppies. With teacups the care is still extreme and they do require constant monitoring but after the Chihuahua this is a breed that I would recomend for anyone seeking a teacup.

 

Yet another breed that has been producing teacups for a long time. I find, though, that in the breed the quality varies greatly. They are prone to the same health issues and Poodles add eye problems to the list. They are midline in the teacup group and can be extremely frail as puppies. This is a favorite breed of mine to the point that when I lost my teacup girl I couldn't own another. I treasure the breed and love all of the qualities that poodles have. As adults they need protection and some continue to need delicate care for life. When adopting a teacup poodle select, as with any breed, your breeder carefully. Look for logevity in the breeder's experience.

 

Hybrids/Designers
Maltipoos & other designer hybrids do benefit from the simple fact that they are hybrids. I get a lot of flak from purebred people (and I will not deny that I myself own only purebred dogs) who will not acknolwedge the proof that by diversifying the gene pool you do get hardier dogs. It is also wise to consider that by adding one breed to another you are combining breed health issues and you can "double up" on problems. This hardiness comes into play with a teacup as ADULTS. Any designer teacup is the same as any other pure bred. They are delicate and require a great deal of care.

 

 

Nutrical

Playpen

Yogurt (Yoplait Plain or Vanilla...they seem to prefer the Vanilla)

Heat Lamp (found at pet stores online or locally...we do not use or advise the use of heating pads)

Eagle Brand Puppy

Pedialite

Syringes (buy them by the box of 100 online at any pet supply place)

Science Diet AD (keep on hand just in case)

Science Diet ID

White Chicken Breast (no skin, no fat, no spices)

White Rice

Bedding (we use the little round washable beds from Walmart or Tuesday Morning)

Lysol Spray

Bleach (30 to 1 for cleaning the  floor of your playpen)

Albon (we send every puppy home with this medication for Coccidia but we also ask that you get some from your vet or a pet supply warehouse to keep on hand...I order mine with a prescription from my vet from PetSupplies4Less.com just ask for Brandy). Do not use this medication without a vet's advice. You can call or email me anytime to ask about coccidia or it's treatment.

 

 

I use the half sized human baby playpens and I buy them at Walmart. I remove the pad in the bottom and my husband cuts a piece of 3/4" plywood for the bottom. Then we cut a piece of linolium to fit the bottom. This makes the playpen easy to wipe down and clean. It is imperative that you keep it immaculate. We wipe ours down using a 30 to 1 solution of clorox after every paper change and spray it out daily with namebrand Lysol aeresol spray. If the mesh or sides become dirty we take ours outdoors and spray it down with the hose and color safe bleach washing powders.  Allow it to sun dry before putting the puppy back in it. I keep several of these and if you own a two story home you may want more than one too. I keep one in the living area and one next to my bed. I move the puppies with me as I move throughout the house. This way I can keep an eye on them day and night.

 

Your crib is one of your most important tools as a teacup Mom or Dad. It keeps your puppy from using up too much energy at one time. It keeps your puppy out from under your feet and out of things it shouldn't be in. A crib is an ABSOLUTE MUST in teacup care. Our teacups stay in the crib unless we have them out playing with them or letting them sleep in our arms. They provide a safe haven that your teacup is familiar with and is comfortable to eat and drink in (this is so important).

 

On top of the linoleum we line the crib with newspapers. We provide seperate food and water dishes (and wash them several times a day!). We place a bed (puppy safe) and the food in one corner of the crib and allow the left over area for play and potty. We change papers immediately upon any sign of wastes. It is important to keep your crib clean and well lined, your dishes clean, and your bedding washed. This means you will need at least two beds and sets of dishes.  I do use a heat lamp (purchased from a pet supplier on the top edge of the crib with a low wattage light for extra small puppies or if my house is cold. I don't like heating pads as they spot heat. You must make sure you keep your baby warm.

 

Simply put this is low blood sugar. ALL teacups are succeptable to this. This is the BIGGEST problem in teacup care. Think of your teacup as a little battery. You cannot allow it to go down. So you must constantly recharge. They cannot allow them too much exercise which will run their battery down. You cannot allow them to miss meals. You have to be aware of and treat for parasites which can also wear down their batteries. They cannot use up their energy staying warm so you must keep them warm at all times.

 

Signs of hypoglycemia are:

Lethargy

Staggering

Appearing Drunk or Wobbly

Coma

 

***We give our own dogs vet care and we REQUIRE that you do the SAME...these recomendations are not to replace vet care...always contact your vet when your puppy is experiencing ANY type of problem!!! These suggestions are here to help you keep your puppy alive until you reach your vet! ****

 

If you find your puppy in a coma apply Nutrical to the gums. Rub it in gently and get to a vet immediately. If the puppy CAN SWALLOW give Nutrical in small amounts every three minutes until you reach your vet or until you see the puppy coming around.

 

If your puppy is just lethargic or wobbly a 1" strip of Nutrical should bring them around quickly. Watch them closely and contact your vet. I also always give 3 cc's of Pedialite when a puppy is experiencing low blood sugar. Just to make sure they aren't dehydrated which can lead to stress and low blood sugar.

 

There is always a REASON for your puppy to experience hypoglycemia. You must treat the CAUSE and not just the resulting problem. Too much exercise, parasites, not eating, there is always a REASON. Find it with the help of your vet.

 

 

Your teacup puppy does NOT belong, EVER, in a bag with you at the mall.  this applies to any teacup UNDER ONE YEAR OF AGE. It makes me physically ill to see people who do this. There is no taking them out to show them off. There is no handling them constantly. There is NEVER an excuse for letting children handle them. They do not belong on the floor to wander as they please. They absolutely need your eye on them every single second that you have them out of their crib. Accidents are deadly for teacups. Stepping on them or letting them fall of the bed, countertop, or couch are often fatal and senseless accidents. The only reason to get them out of the house is for a trip to the vet.

Play periods should be brief. 20 minutes maximum. Allowing them to exert themselves and use up all of their sugar can lead to hypoglycemia.

 

Parasites are just part of owning a puppy or a dog and it has little to do with the breeder that you purchased your puppy from! All puppies have worms and parasites and all it is just standard care to treat for these. Teacups need fecals done with their vaccines every three weeks and special attention paid to their stools. I always collect stools myself from home and carry them to the vet in a ziplock bag. Teacups are so tiny that it hurts them to have something shoved up their butt to get a stool sample. Coccidia and Giardia are extra hard on teacups due to their size and the stress factor. It's a delicate balance with these bacterias. We treat all of our puppies for coccidia and even send them home with medication for it but you must maintain that care once you have them in your home. A loose, watery stool or a stool with mucus is a sign that your puppy is battling coccidia. It may take several rounds of Albon to help them overcome   it. Usually we do ten days on Albon, eight days off, and then another eight days on. This is left up to YOU AND YOUR VET, though, and it's just part of owning a puppy. Unfortunately teacups have more trouble with parasites due to their tiny size alone. They become stressed easily which allows these bacterias to flare up. So you must work with your vet to keep your puppies tummy healthy and parasite free. IT IS ABSOLUTELY IMPERATIVE THAT YOU OBSERVE YOUR TEACUP PUPPIES STOOLS EVERY SINGLE DAY! Blood or watery stools mean an IMMEDIATE trip to the vet. They can dehydrate in a matter of HOURS.

 

Vaccines are very hard on teacups. We use 1/2 vaccine doses at the advice and with the supervision of our vet. You must provide round the clock care for teacup puppies for up to four days  following vaccines. Be aware that vaccines can cause reactions, hair loss, and other things that aren't commonly associated due to the tiny size of your puppy. All of our teacups are vaccinated ONLY BY OUR VET.

 

It's an open surgery and due to personal experience I do not recomend that any dog under four pounds be spayed. Put some panties on your baby and protect her carefully. If you own a male dog it's different and neutering is easier than spaying. This is for females only. I simply won't risk one of my tiny babies to anestheia.  If you do spay do it by LASER only and make sure your dog is over one year of age.

 

Teacups are notorious for problems with teeth. It's an issue of room. The often retain baby teeth and their teeth can get in bad shape quickly. Keep a constant eye on your teacups teeth. Help them through teething with proper toys and keep their teeth clean. Teeth are the main reason why it's important to get your teacup on a diet of dry food as soon as possible. Wet food encourages tooth decay.

 

 

Don't let your teacup use all of it's energy keeping warm. We use heat lamps attached to the top of our cribs. If you keep your house cool in the summer this is very important. Yes, we leave them on even at night. Make sure to get a lamp designed for use with puppies. They are availabe at most pet supply stores.

 

Nutrical is just the standard for teacup care. It comes in a tube like toothpaste. You will give your teacup Nutrical for the first six months and even after that if they stay under three pounds. Nutrical can prevent hypoglycemia in most cases and it can help you treat a puppy with hypoglycemia.

 

This is a new one for me, and we just started this in the past twelve months but it WORKS. We give Yogurt to our puppies by mouth using a syringe. Give it SLOWLY and do NOT choke your puppy or cause it to aspirate! It's wonderful and keeps their little tummies in good shape.

 

Teacups require a high quality diet. We feed and recomend either Eagle Pack Puppy or Eagle Pack Holistic Chicken and Rice. Their food needs to be covered in warm water and allowed to soak. We also always offer dry food along with the wet. Dry food is your goal with any teacup. As babies, though, we do cover the hard food with warm water and let it soak for a few minutes before offering it to the puppies. This helps them chew with their tiny mouths.

 

You may have to cook for your teacup. We use a small pan and and white chicken breast with NO skin or fat. Cover it with water and make sure you cook it completely. Once the chicken is done we add white rice and let it simmer. When it's done we grind it into TINY bits and offer it slightly warm (test it!). NEVER let this sit for any amount of time and be careful to wash anything that has touched chicken. Salmonella can kill a teacup so cleanliness is a key factor when feeding your teacup home cooked meals. Remember that this formula has NO sugar in it which is essential to your puppies needs. Keep up the Nutrical and only offer this if you have no other alternatives. BEFORE YOU TRY COOKING FOR YOUR TEACUP OFFER THEM SCIENCE DIET ID CANNED. It is a very good food tool to use when tempting a finiky puppy.

 

Teacups need SEVERAL small meals throughout the day! I keep food constantly available to all teacups. I keep a "buffet" of sorts for them. I always have down dry, dry food that has been wetted and softened, and a touch of ID if they are being picky. IT IS AN ABSOLUTE MUST THAT YOU CLOSELY MONITOR YOUR TEACUPS EATING AND DRINKING HABITS. THIS IS AN EVERY DAY THING AND JUST PART OF OWNING A TEACUP. YOU CANNOT BECOME LAX ABOUT THIS. IT IS HARD WORK AND REQUIRED OF ALL TEAUP OWNERS.

 

If your teacup is experiencing an upset tummy or a slight reaction to vaccines you may have to force feed. Keep a can of Science Diet AD on hand as it can be pulled up in a syringe and given by mouth. You can supplement that with Yogurt.

 

 

We suggest an every four hour schedule for feeding and supplementing your teacup. A teacup that experiencing problems can be on an every hour or two hour schedule. A schedule can vary to fit your own schedule but you absolutely must maintain frequent checks. I am on a schedule for actual care given but I KEEP AN EYE ON MY PUPPIES AT ALL TIMES. It's the only way to go with teacups. If I can't be here at home I have someone else to watch them or I make my trips brief. It's just part of owning a teacup!

 

You must be vigilant and DO NOT BECOME LAX AS TO THIS CARE AFTER YOUR TEACUP HAS BEEN WITH YOU FOR A FEW WEEKS. THIS IS A MAJOR MISTAKE THAT A LOT OF PEOPLE MAKE. JUST BECAUSE YOUR TEACUP IS DOING WELL AND SEEMS TO BE FINE IT DOES NOT MEAN YOU CAN QUIT DOING THE WORK REQUIRED! YOUR TEACUP MAY REQUIRE THIS CARE FOR THE REST OF IT'S LIFE! YOU CAN PLAN ON KEEPING THIS UP FOR AT LEAST THE FIRST NINE MONTHS TO ONE YEAR!  This is why it's so important to think the ownership over so carefully.

 

6 am:

1/2" of Nutrical

3 cc's or one syringe full of Yogurt (give by mouth so that you are absolutely sure that they took it all..go slowly and don't choke them!)

Put out fresh food and water.

Take up the nights dishes for washing in the dishwasher and replace them with clean dishes.

Change Papers

Change to fresh bedding (we wash our bedding daily)

Check nightly Stools

Make sure that eyes are clean and clear and free of eye boogers

You can opt for a play period if you are up to it this early. Twenty minutes maximum.

 

10 am:

1/4" of Nutrical (1/2 if you have a hardy play session)

2 cc's of Yogurt if they are eating well 3 if they aren't

Change water if it's dirty

Change/freshen  food  and wash dishes if you are giving home cooked chicken

Check to see if they have eaten their breakfast

Bring the puppy out for a 20 minute play period

Check ears to see if they are clean and dry

Change papers

 

2 pm:

1/4" of Nutrical

2 cc's of Yogurt 3 if they aren't eating well

Check water and freshen both food and water.

Change bowls or wash your current bowls

Change papers

20 minute play period

 

6pm:

1/4" of Nutrical

2 cc's of Yogurt 3 if they aren't eating well

Check food and water

Change papers

20 minute play period

Follow play period with a carful all over check. Ears, eyes, toenails, and use this time to brush and comb them out being careful of their delicate skin

 

11 pm:

This is when we get them ready for bed.

I freshen bedding & change papers

Give them 3ccs of Yogurt

Fix them a small assortment of food choices (listed above)

1/2" of Nutrical

Check your heat lamp and make sure it's not touching anything and plugged in correctly

A play session is fine and I usually sit with them in my arms at this time and cuddle and let them sleep for a bit in my arms (this is fine anytime just don't do it too much...you want them to have adequate time to rest and eat and drink).

 

**Overnight is where a lot of people get in trouble. You must do a late check in and an early one to ensure you're puppy is doing well. You can rotate duty in your home but it's a huge responsibility and just part of owning a teacup!

 

 

***If you have a sick or weak puppy you will need to do a check in the middle of the night. Night checks are also good for at least the first week your puppy is in it's new home. A sick puppy can require all night care! We don't sleep much here when we are caring for teacups!